The Scene
Thousands are expected to descend on Riyadh from Oct. 27 for the ninth edition of the Future Investment Initiative — better known as Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman’s “Davos in the Desert.” For those who want to venture past the gilded halls of The Ritz-Carlton, Semafor’s Saudi Arabia correspondent Manal Albarakati has curated this guide.
Some tips: Book ahead for fine dining, grab soccer tickets now, and pad your schedule for traffic. Smart-casual works almost everywhere, but dress modestly (elbows, knees covered) in heritage spots.
In this article:
Where to eat
Authentic
- Najd Village offers hearty local plates, traditional décor, floor seating, and many photo ops.
- Aseeb is good for large groups, with consistent service and food that is a touch more elevated than Najd Village.
- TAKYA is modern Saudi cuisine in the heart of Diriyah, the revived heritage district.
- Tameesa’s Hejazi fool and its namesake tamees are a must-try at this beloved breakfast spot.
Upscale
- COYA offers Peruvian small plates and pretty mocktails — and keep an eye out for Manal, this is her favorite spot.
- Hōchō is a Michelin Guide pick that serves contemporary Japanese.
- Scott’s may be one of the oldest restaurants in London, but the Riyadh outpost offers a fresh spin on seafood.
- Il Baretto is another London transplant, serving refined Italian.
- LPM is a favorite among expats and locals alike, with consistent French Mediterranean fare.
Casual
- AlBaik is an iconic Saudi fast-food chain with famously addictive garlic sauce.
- Al Romansiah serves up Saudi dishes like mandi and kabsa in big portions at a friendly price.
- Mama Noura is a Shawarma institution: quick, cheap, and usually packed.
Laptop-friendly
- Bohemia Cafe & Records slings coffee and vinyl in a no-frills setting.
- Café Bateel in the Diplomatic Quarter is a quiet spot for a relaxed lunch.
- Urth Caffé offers a good cup of coffee and a striking backdrop: a Zaha Hadid designed metro station and Riyadh’s sleekest skyscrapers.
- attaché, in a converted equestrian club, specializes in farm-to-fork dishes and mocktails in an Instagram-friendly setting.
- Al Mamlaka Social Dining is a buzzy high-end food court that can please most palettes.
After-hours
- UNSTABLE is the post-work side of Attaché with rotating DJs, experimental visuals, and an eclectic crowd.
- Stella Sky Lounge, on the St. Regis rooftop, is the place to go for shisha (hookah), small bites, and weekend DJ sets.
- Beast House is where you go when you don’t get into UNSTABLE.
What to see
- Diriyah is a photogenic UNESCO World Heritage Site, fun to walk around and grab a bite.
- JAX District offers up the Museum of Contemporary Art (aka SAMOCA), as well as galleries, cafés, weekend raves, and perhaps the city’s best peoplewatching.
- Kingdom Arena will host Al Hilal vs. Al Shabab, a marquee soccer match for the Riyadh rivals, on Oct. 31.
- Riyadh Season is underway. Much of the action is centered around BLVD World, the kingdom’s answer to Epcot, and BLVD City, a destination for carnival games and Times Square-level energy.
- Souk Al‑Zal is the souvenir stop: Riyadh’s traditional marketplace sells carpets, spices, and knickknacks.
- The National Museum charts 3,700 years of Saudi history and heritage.
AD