Indian Railways will sunset its iconic bandhgala uniforms amid a push to stamp out colonial-era symbols, sparking a debate over the centuries-old garment.
Also known as a Jodhpuri suit, the bandhgala originated in the principality of Rajasthani Jodhpur in the 16th century.
Known for its closed neckline, fitted torso, and high collar for weathering harsh winters in the country’s north, the garment changed along with the subcontinent itself; first emerging in the Mughal court, it was later tailored for horse-riding and polo in the late 19th century.
Around the same time, it was adopted by the national railway — replacing, ironically, a more European-style tunic. But throughout, “the jacket itself always remained Indian,” a menswear designer told The Guardian.