There’s a mini-scandal brewing in Dubai’s elite food scene. The latest Michelin Guide awarded stars or distinctions to 11 restaurants that have temporarily or permanently closed because of the war. Food writer Samantha Wood questioned why shuttered restaurants made the cut. Michelin told her it was “fully aware that due to the current circumstances” some restaurants were closed, and said it would reassess when (if?) they reopen. One critic quipped that a new Michelin category is warranted: “Bib Fermé.”
Controversy aside, there are still great meals to be had. Orfali Bros Bistro — run by Aleppo-born Mohammad Orfali and his siblings Wassim and Omar — now has two stars, adding to the accolades for the region’s most celebrated chef. They recently revamped the menu with creations like crème caramel caviar and a cold strawberry, tomato, and kohlrabi dish, while perfecting favorites like the corn bomb and spicy burghul salad wrapped in a shiso leaf.